Those really wide mountain bike bars are trendy rn; these bars are longer than the stock riser bars on most other similar single speeds, but shorter than MB bars. Riser bars were light and felt like a quality part. I just happened to order the wrong part. I would've absolutely kept the bars if it fit. These changed my bike, I love them on my Super comfortable and made the posture on the bike very relaxed. To be fair, I didn't expect to like these as much as I do. The first ride I was pretty skeptical, but they just keep getting better and I like them more and more each time I ride.
Great bars for shorter commutes or rides around town, but I'd certainly want a bullhorn or drop bars if I were doing longer stuff. Great quality and the cvlt x vans grips are awesome! I had bought a Golden Cycle steel frame fixie and the bars were just a bit short for my liking. The SBC bars with the sweet vans grips are perfect for this 6'2" rider. Now you have me eyeing that Army green Black Label for my next bike!
Note: It should be noted that much of this can be achieved with risers bars by adjusting your riding technique. On the right bike, set up correctly for the rider, a flat bar may offer no disadvantage whatsoever. However, for many riders, the more forward position and subsequent weight on the hands and wrists can be a source of numbness or pain on longer rides. The forward weight also inhibits the rider from pulling the front wheel up, more so than when using a riser bar. Riser bars, like flat bars, also include a backward sweep angle of around 7 — 9 degrees, but they also have upward bends to place the grip positions higher than the level of where the stem clamps to the bar.
Riser bars usually come in rises between 10 — 40 mm. If you loosen the stem clamp and roll the riser bar a little, the combination of rise and back sweep lifts or lowers, and rolls the bar grips forward or back a little.
This allows a little adjustment to be made to suit your personal taste or even accommodate an injury or condition you may be riding with. Probably the main advantage however, comes from lifting your hands to a higher position.
This is an advantage for keeping your weight back and still being to get some lift from the front wheel when you need, especially when the bike is pointing downwards. Less weight on your hands means less weight over your front wheel, in turn pushing your tyres into the trail less and producing less traction.
A more aggressive body position changes are required to regain the front end traction. Also, a lighter front end and higher grip position will also encourage more front wheel lift on steep climbs. Again, a more aggressive body position is required to resolve this.
Remember to always consider your bike setup when changing bars. If you want the most efficient power transfer when seated for fire roads and climbs, then your saddle height should not be comprised. Changing your bars from flat to riser or vice versa alters your reach distance a little.
Reach is basically how far you have reach forward to hold your bars. Your bar height is also changed unless you compensate with stem adjustments. You may or may not need to raise or lower your stem height to keep within the recommended levels. For example, if your bike has a 65 degree head angle, a quick trigonometry equation shows that for every 10 mm of spacers you add, the stem moves 9.
Adding 40 mm of spacers, in this case, would move the grips Riser bars make no change to the grip position in the horizontal plane in relationship with the head tube, adding or removing spacers changes the bars horizontal position as well as the vertical plane.
Now we understand the terminology and differences between making adjustments with riser bars and headset spacers. In order to see how the bar height and position influences ride feel we headed to the Innerleithen trails with a brace of FatBar Lite flat and riser bars from Renthal for a day of back to back testing. Throughout a day we hot-swapped between 0, 20 and 40 mm rise, all cut to mm wide. To ensure proper testing, no other changes were made to set up and bar rotation and backsweep within the stem was identical.
Fitting a flat bar to our test bikes was instantly noticeable to our testers. Your bodyweight is pulled low and to the front, and the connection to the front wheel feels a lot more direct. Steering is very precise at low speeds, and you can feel the traction of the front tire through turns.
On flow trails and flatter trails the bike darts through corners with precision and does not understeer. However, when riding very steep terrain, the low front end pulls your weight far forward in a very aggressive position which requires more strength and energy, we found our arms and hands getting fatigued faster.
The high loading on the front wheel also means it feels a little overloaded and is harder to unweight over holes and compressions. We also found it hard to drive with the legs as the low bars moved the weight forward and onto to our arms. At the other end of the spectrum, when we swapped to a 40 mm riser bar the changes were instantly noticeable.
The riding position is more open with the head and chest higher for a more comfortable ride. On steeper trails we found we were more centralised on the bike, with the weight spread more between the legs and arms, feeling less fatigue.
The front wheel was well weighted in corners on steep trails, but we found we could still unweight the wheel over obstacles. However, on flat trails and slow speed corners, we did not feel as connected to the front wheel and we had to actively ride further forward on the bike for maximum control.
In flat turns we had to ride more dynamically, pulling our weight over the bars by stretching our legs to weight the front wheel and avoid understeering.
First a disclaimer.
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